Ireland’s allure has captivated people from around the world for centuries. For us, our visit was a chance to explore a breathtaking country and our own family history. Both of us have roots tracing back to the rolling green fields of the Emerald Isle, so we feel a deep, personal connection to the land and its people. Setting foot on Irish soil, we had the sense we were embarking on an adventure that would ignite our sense of wonder and plumb the depths our Irish heritage.
After an agonizingly long flight that felt like a forced meditation on the virtues of patience, we finally arrived at our hotel in the Temple Bar neighborhood of Dublin. Disheveled and jet-lagged, we stumbled into our room like a pair of exhausted zombies dropping into bed in our travel clothes.
Just as we were drifting into blissful sleep, the clacking of drum sticks, followed by blaring rock music rose from below, prompting an eruption of flailing arms and pillow-swatting from Husband. Ladies and gentlemen, Saturday night in Temple Bar has commenced! God knows how we slept through that first night – our hotel room window was directly above Buskers Bar, one of the most popular venues in Temple Bar.
Despite that inauspicious beginning to a night of fitful sleep, we woke the next morning determined to turn things around. With a bleary-eyed determination, it was time to leave the sleep-deprived world behind and dive headfirst into an awaiting tour van—taking us to some of the most magical spots in the country, starting at the Rock of Cashel.
Rising above a broad expanse of verdant fields, this medieval fortress sits atop a rugged limestone outcrop. For centuries, this was the place where Ireland’s high Kings were crowned.
We stood among the crusty monuments at the edge of the graveyard and took in the view, a vibrant patchwork of green, stretching miles toward the hazy silhouette of the Galtee Mountains on the horizon.
Bracing ourselves against the cold enveloping our windswept perch, I sensed ancient lives and spirits emanating from the land and imagined what it was like to be crowned a monarch at this sacred place. I snuggled up to Husband, trying to get warm, but he was done standing in the wind. “Let’s head back to the tour van.”
“Yes, my liege.”
Cue the eye roll.
The Rock of Cashel
St. Patricksrock, Cashel, Co. Tipperary, Ireland
https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/rock-of-cashel/
Leaving the ancient stronghold of the Rock of Cashel behind, we moved on to our next destination: the serenity of Glendalough. Nestled in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains National Park, Glendalough is famous for its early medieval monastic settlement, founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. The ruins of churches, a round tower, and ancient gravestones offer a glimpse into Ireland’s early Christian history. By the 9th and 10th centuries, Glendalough was renowned for its scriptorium, where Irish monks meticulously hand-copied and preserved classical texts, safeguarding the wisdom of antiquity during the Dark Ages.
We tumbled out of the van and began to explore. As we wandered in and among the graveyard’s headstones, our footsteps muffled by the deep grass, the rain that had been threatening all day, began to fall. Most of the visitors scattered for shelter, but I didn’t feel the need to escape.
Luckily, the shower was light and short-lived. The rain washed the sounds from the air, leaving only the sound of drips randomly marking the silence that filled the desolate cemetery.
The drizzle turned the stones slick and spooky, and I suddenly grasped how easily the ancient Irish could believe in fairies. Glendalough has long been a storied home to these sprite-like creatures. Its ancient woodlands, tranquil lakes and meadows are said to be inhabited by the fairie folk, who play among the delicate wildflowers and dance beneath the moonlight in the shadows of the ancient ruins. This ethereal connection between fairies and Glendalough has captured the imaginations of generations.
Unfortunately, the rain had also left the lawn extremely slippery. My feet kept sliding in all directions as I gingerly picked my way toward the paved walkway. I must have looked like a drunken giraffe attempting the moonwalk. Husband and the rest of the tour group were watching me from the cover of the nearby monastery ruins. Giggling.
I immediately regretted yelling “It’s only rain! “after them as they fled to the shelter of the monastery, leaving me abandoned in the graveyard. I smirked sheepishly at them as I shuffled my soggy boots along. I clutched headstones to keep me upright until I reached bare ground where I found myself contemplating the passage of time and the fragility of life and not just because I was trying not to fall and break my neck.
There’s a feeling in this place, hard to describe. Glendalough inspires a pause, a pause to breathe and appreciate the fleeting moments that define our existence.
Glendalough
Sevenchurches or Camaderry, Glendalough, Co. Wicklow, Ireland
Our last stop on our tour was the megalithic tomb of Newgrange.
Newgrange is a prehistoric monument located in County Meath. It stands as a testament to the architectural sophistication of its creators. Built around 3200 BC, it consists of a large circular mound with an inner stone passageway and a central chamber. During the winter solstice, a narrow beam of sunlight penetrates the tomb’s entrance, gradually illuminating the inner chamber, an impressive demonstration of ancient astronomical and engineering prowess.
Our guide led us into the narrow entrance passage and the seven of us squeezed into the heart of the dimly lit passage tomb. The stone walls were covered with intricate megalithic art, whispering stories of generations long gone. We were not visiting at sunrise of the winter solstice, so our guide gave us a simulation of the event: he shone a brilliant beam of light into the chamber, gradually filling it with a warm radiance.
The winter solstice has been significant to many ancient cultures, marking the return of the Sun. The gradual waning of daylight hours is reversed and the days begin to lengthen again.
Our guide flicked the light off and we were left in near darkness. The guide led us out of the shadows of Newgrange into the sunshine of County Meath.
The contrast between the haunted interior of the monument and the brilliant expanse of daylight is akin to the shift in daylight after the winter solstice, when the world gradually awakens from its slumber.
Husband came away marveling at how profoundly the ancient people were in tune with Earth and impressed with their deep understanding of astronomy.
Newgrange is both a physical and symbolic journey, a powerful reminder of the cyclical nature of life and of humanity’s place in the cosmos.
Even though it has been a while since our visit to Ireland, the urge to return has never faded. Good luck to me: Husband doesn’t readily agree to revisit any place we’ve already been. Our recent anniversary weekend was a rare exception, and that post is coming soon, but his attitude has always been “There are so many other places in the world to see. Why repeat?”
I miss the enchanting melodies of Celtic music, filling my heart with nostalgia and joy. I long for the warmth and humor of the Irish people, whose friendly smiles and quick wit light up even the rainiest of days.
I miss the vibrant culture, the genuine hospitality, and the comforting flavors that make Ireland a truly special place.
I hold onto our memories and look forward to the day I can convince Husband to return and can immerse myself in Ireland’s magic once again.
Sticky Toffee Pudding: A delight that captures the essence of Irish warmth and comfort. Just as Ireland is steeped in rich history and charm, this dessert is a symphony of flavors that has become a beloved treat across the globe.
Read our Sticky Toffee Pudding Recipe here:
Stunning photography! Wonderful narrative! Your details carry me off with you. Ireland has moved up my bucket list, as these are definitely things that pique my interest.
Thanks for sharing, great blog!
Thank you so much for your comment! We loved Ireland and I think you would love it too – so much history and the people were so funny and welcoming.
TTD