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We were heading back from a romantic day of exploring the city and it was starting to rain.   Not just a shower, but a windy, horizontal slash of water.  We were almost to our hotel and starting to make a run for it when we were engulfed by the glorious aroma coming from Maki Ramen, just a few doors up from the Marriott.  A lot of Edinburgh closes early, so we decided to take sanctuary in the noodle bar. 

Maki Ramen

We’d passed this place several times but hadn’t eaten there.  We squeezed through the doorway and took in the scene:   a crowded mix of young and old, different ethnicities, business people and tourists, and a long line of take-out customers.  The vibrant pulse I look for when we are visiting a city.  Do the locals eat here?  That’s what I want to know.  

The restaurant’s walls were plastered with post-it notes from the diners.  All sorts of languages and messages.  Scattered all over the restaurant were piles of different colored post-its and pens for patrons to use.   

Of course, we had to add our own note.  

We were seated in a secluded corner by the window where we snuggled in the cozy atmosphere and watched the rain outside.  It brought back romantic memories of our first date, a rainy Saturday night in 1996. 

Husband ordered a bowl of Hell Ramen with a bottle of Sapporo and I ordered the Tonkotsu Ramen and an Appletiser, a sparkling apple drink.  I resisted the urge to order Takoyaki (Octopus balls), even though friends had suggested them.  I like to try new things when we travel but on this night, I chose comfort over adventure. 

As we waited for our dinner to arrive and our bodies to warm, I pulled my new treasures out of my coat pocket. 

The Luckenbooth

Earlier in the day, we visited Edinburgh Castle and were poking into shops on the Royal Mile which runs from the Castle to Holyrood House.  I had been looking for a souvenir but none of the usual mementos (T-shirts, tartans, etc., ) were speaking to me.   We paused by the window of a quaint shop and saw a display case containing brooches of various sizes and shapes, most of them featuring hearts and crowns in their design.  We went inside and asked the shop lady for a closer look. 

She laid the display case on the counter before us. 

 “What are these?”, I asked. 

“Luckenbooths”, she said.  “They are love tokens.   They’ve been a custom for a long time.  People often gave them as romantic betrothal gifts.  They weren’t called ‘Luckenbooths’ until the late 1800’s. In those days, street vendors sold them from stalls called ‘Luckenbooths’ in Gaelic and they got their name from that.  Aren’t they lovely?”  

Husband smiled and said, “Sounds like a perfect anniversary present.   Which one do you want?” 

“I want them all!” They were so beautiful.

I finally narrowed the choices down to two.  The smaller one had the more elaborate crown and I loved the addition of the thistles – Scotland’s national flower.  It dated from the 1970’s. The larger one was more elegant and the intertwined hearts were a romantic touch.  It was also the older one of the two,    dating from the 1940s.

I kept going back and forth between them, struggling enormously with the decision. 

“Why don’t I just buy you both?”, Husband asked.  I love how he thinks! 

With my new beauties boxed, wrapped and tied in a bow, we headed back to our hotel for the night. 

The Ramen

The arrival of two steaming bowls of Ramen brought me back into the moment. 

Husband was disappointed that the Hell Ramen wasn’t the inferno he was hoping for, but still found it yummy spicy and the meat in both bowls was tender and flavorful. 

I lifted my bowl to take a sip – oh my God!  The toasty, slurpy, brothy goodness!  The creamy zestiness danced all over my tongue.    In short order, both bowls were empty.  With full hearts and bellies, we left to go to our hotel. 

The Rain

I was feeling all loved up from our day together and our warm and cozy dinner.  As we left the restaurant, I grabbed the lapel of my husband’s jacket and pulled him close, letting the umbrella down and allowing the rain to fall on us as I kissed him. 

This looks all-kinds-of-romantic in movies, but in real life – it is just cold, wet and sloppy.  And so not romantic that we both started laughing.  He grabbed the umbrella and asked, “Can we go inside now please?” 

“Yes, we can go inside now.” 

This night will always be my most treasured memory of Scotland. 

Plan Your Visit

Maki & Ramen has a couple of locations in Edinburgh – good for a romantic dinner or if you are just hungry for some good Ramen. 

Maki & Ramen – 37 Leith St., Edinburgh. EH1 3AT, UK +44 131 556 4719

Maki & Ramen – 97-101 Fountainbridge, Edinburgh. EH3 9QG, UK +44 131 228 5068

Maki & Ramen – 13 W. Richmond St., Edinburgh. EH8 9EF, UK +44 7548 628685

https://www.makiramen.com/

And if you are looking for a romantic Luckenbooth, check out the Court Curio Shop: 519 Lawnmarket, Royal Mile, Edinburgh. EH1 2PE, UK +44 0131 225 3972
https://courtcurio.business.site/rom